Elmer's Homemade "Atomic" Clock
 | Here are some pictures of the process by which I converted a normal, quartz clock to radio control so that it can keep itself set to "atomic time." I started with an off-the-shelf analog clock that I purchased at a Super Target store several years ago. I purchased a radio controlled movement from Klockit to replace the clock's original movement. Personally, I've had great success working with the Klockit company, but there are others which sell radio controlled movements. Also, there may be a local clock shop and/or craft store in your area that carries radio controlled clock movements, in case you want to shop locally. But I like Klockit's variety of hand styles and other related supplies so, for me, it's easiest just to go directly to Klockit's web site. You might notice that Klockit sells a complete kit for a radio controlled clock which you can assemble yourself. This may be the best way to start. After you've built their kit, all these things will make more sense and you'll see how easy it will be to convert almost any analog clock into a radio controlled clock.
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Here's another hint. If you plan to convert a clock you already have, chances are great that the original hands will not fit on the new, radio controlled movement. Often, the company which sells the radio controlled movement will include a free set of hands with the movement. You can select from many different styles and sizes. You may want to match the original hands as closely as possible or you may decide to change the style. There may be many options. But the movement might not include the sweep second hand. You must specifically mention that you want a sweep second hand because half the fun of having one of these clocks is knowing that it's correct right down to the second. Sure, they'll work without the sweep second hands... but where's the fun in that?
Now, let's get started...
 | The first thing you need to do to this clock is take it completely apart. Fortunately, everything is held together with screws. I removed the front "crystal" and all other screws that were holding anything in place. In its original version, the hands were just pressed onto the movement, so I was able to easily remove them just by gently pulling them away from the face. (Remember to handle the hands near the movement shaft so that you don't bend them.) Please note: On some of these clocks, in addition to the screws, there's double-stick, foam tape holding some pieces in place. It can be a big pain to pull things apart. Just be careful and don't pry too hard. Go slowly.
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 | To keep the thin, plastic face from getting warped, this clock uses a thick, ring-type assembly to hold the movement. I removed the original movement and then I had to cut the "ring" to make room for the larger, radio controlled movement.
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 | Here, I'm comparing the size of the original, quartz movement (on the right) with the new, radio controlled movement on the left. As you can see, the radio controlled movement is about an inch "taller" on the top. If you were to remove that inch, it would be virtually the same size as the old movement and the shaft would be in the same position. This makes it relatively simple to install the new movement into a clock which accepts a standard, AA-powered movement. If the clock you want to convert doesn't have any kind of "cradle" that fits snugly around the movement, then it will be even easier to install the larger, new movement.
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 | Again, this shows how I had to modify the old ring-type "cradle" that held the original movment.
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 | And now the old "cradle" is ready to accept the new movement. At this point, you may notice that I'm preparing to mount the movement upside down. You may choose to mount it upside down or not. I wanted it upside down so that I could use the hanging hole at the top of where the original movement sat. I cut away the plastic (to make room for the new movement) using a small, handheld power tool. Then I did some fine-tuning with a hobby knife. I wanted the new movement to fit snugly but not too right.
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 | After putting the movement in place and checking to make sure it would really line up well, I started replacing the screws which I removed earlier.
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 | Next I installed the washer and nut around the shaft of the new movement to hold it snugly to the clock face.
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 | I decided to try a new style of hands for this clock. But I still wanted white hands. I was prepared to spray-paint the new hands but, as it turns out, the hands I purchased from Klockit were black on one side and white on the other. So I just installed the hands with the white sides showing.
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 | While the hour hand is pressed into place and there's no additional hardware to hold it there, the minute hand is held in place by this tiny nut that screws onto the end of the minute hand shaft. It's not the easiest thing to install if you have big fingers. But it's not too difficult.
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 | I installed the hands in the 12 o'clock position, as precisely as I could, so that they will remain in the proper alignment when the clock is running.
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 | And I installed the second hand so that it points exactly at the 12 o'clock position too.
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 | At this point, it is also essential that the hands are parallel to each other or, at the very least, that they don't touch each other. The last thing you want is for these hands to rub against each other when the clock is running.
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 | With the hands in place, I'm almost done. All I had to do was put the front crystal back in place and replace all of the little screws that I had removed when I took the clock apart. (I also made sure to carefully clean the glass after I'd been handling it throughout this process. I didn't want to put it all together and then discover that I'd left unsightly fingerprints on the inside.)
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The next step was to install a fresh, AA alkaline battery and start the setting process. With these "Atomix" movements, the user has to do a couple of extra steps to make sure the clock is properly set. And here's what you do...
Let the clock run until the second hand reaches about the 50-second mark. Then remove the battery. The clock has a setting wheel on the back, much like you'd see on any regular, quartz movement. Turn this wheel to set the clock ahead to the nearest hour. For example, if it's about 3:20 when you set the clock, set the hands to the straight-up 3:00 position. But if it's 3:40 when you set the clock, set the hands to the straight-up 4:00 position. Please note: As you move the hands into position before allowing the clock to run, make sure the final 15-minutes-worth of adjustment you make with the setting wheel moves the hands in a clockwise direction.
Next, put the battery in the clock again and watch the second hand. When the second hand reaches the straight-up 12:00 position, press the red button on the back. When the second hand advances one more second, press the red button again. That's it! Hang up the clock and let it run by itself. The second hand will do a double-step advance every two seconds until it has received and processed the time data from WWVB. Then the clock will either run faster-than-normal or slower-than-normal until it is showing the correct time. And then it'll just run normally until the battery gives up.
There is one more nice feature on these movements to help you select a good location. After you've started the setting process and already pressed the red button twice (and the clock is doing the double-step moves), press the red button again and the clock will start to beep for about 30 seconds. If you hear distinct beeps every second, then the clock is getting good WWVB reception. If you hear non-rhythmic beeps or static-type sounds, then you should try moving the clock because it's probably not getting sufficient radio reception.
(Now, what about that clock on the living room wall? Do you think you could convert it too? How about the one at the office? Get creative!)
Click Here to see some of the other clocks I've already converted to radio control.
© 2008